Paris

The first stop, and the first travelling taste of another culture.

Paris speaks to the wealthy, the beautiful and the sight seer, persuading each in turn to live and bask in the glory of its avant-garde avenues, compliment the rich architecture and for the latter, to be overtaken by a feeling, triggered by the domestic and foreign history of Napoleons dominance that inspired pre and post revolution pride and nationality, that is still felt today.

The city situates itself around the river Seine, dividing mainly into two parts; the Rive Gauche (left bank) and the Rive Droite (right bank) and with seemingly no main centre; it is dispersed into districts (eme�s), each containing its own character and significance. As with any large city it is hard to generalise in a matter of words, yet through staying in the quaint yet touristy montemarte area, visiting the medieval Notre dame cathedral in the Ile de la cite, the geographical centre, walking down the Rue Mouffetard in the Latin quarter, visiting the Eiffel Tower in the 7eme arrondissement, the Louvre in the 1er arrondissement, and the Arc de Triomphe at one end of the Champs-Elysees, a cultural appetite was certainly filled, and a real one worked up.

Bearing in mind the stay was for two nights only, there was little time for museums, delicate French food, cabarets, opera, shopping, and starting our own revolution. As a consequence the traveller�s guilt syndrome was felt for the first time. The bigger and better the city- the greater the guilt, and so our next journey to Brugges was undertaken originally to cushion the impact between Paris and Amsterdam, our next large city. Yet Brugge was to take us by surprise�..

Bruges

It�s good to have expectations, especially when they are turned on their head completely.

Bruges (Brugge) harbours its own local identity, its own sense of culture and history, and better than this, beer that would be worth a visit just to taste. This place is a majestic town with Gothic beauty unparalleled elsewhere in Europe, which is why it is the most tourist-ed city in Belgium.

Although it is small enough to be explored on short walks, a bike tour seemed appropriate, to practice alternation between places. An interesting local character guided us through the city to see the Markt (centre place), various buildings of financial and religious interest, a windmill and its caretaker, a level raising bridge, a local beer house and a river with its own tale of tragic love. All this could not have been discovered without such an enthusiastic guide, and our unquenchable curiosity lead us onto an open-air concert that night, transported by our very own bike tour guide.

Bruges was one of the best enjoyed places both because of my surprise at realising the town was so unlike any other I visited, in its culture and tranquillity, and because Belgium itself is a lively respite for festival lovers, that I was able to experience. Full of surprises and great beers, its welcoming grace healed my travellers guilt syndrome and prepared me for the green filled cafes, and red coloured streets of our next stop, Amsterdam.

Amsterdam

Liberalisation can refer to a number of things, but for Amsterdam, it means temptation is the norm.

Its not that culture doesn�t abound within this city, just that it is smoke screened by the abundance of coffee shops, sex shops, smart shops and bikes. The main part of the city is a cluster of narrow streets (and alleys), parks, canals and believe it or not, some bars. There are the museums but as I�d seen them before on an art trip (honestly), I gave them a miss.

Amsterdam was explored by foot, by bike (the alternation process didn�t work) and by tram. The system of transport is clean, safe, and fairly easy to get ones head around, but one always has to be aware of bikers, even in the busiest areas of pedestrians. One cannot go to Amsterdam and not go window-shopping, even just to take a peek at the rows of scantily clad, lusty and welcoming prostitutes wearing the red lights. I was warned not to take my camcorder, and so I didn�t.

Berlin

One night was barely enough for this city.

Berlin captures the heart like no other city, twisting it and moving it with force and relentless intensity. As the largest city in Germany (eight times the size of Paris), this city is nearing the end of a massive transitional phase, soon to become the capital of Europe. Divided into various neighbourhoods, the atmosphere is essentially diverse, and easily the most tolerant in Germany. With a humbling feel, its jagged past with hopeful heart is open for all to see and reflect upon.

Once Berlin had been breached (after a ragged night train), there was little energy to explore. A great hostel welcomed us and our first day was spent recovering. Yet this was redeemed the next day with an extensive, insightful, and entertaining tour of the city, by a guide that was, on reflection, second to none. Areas and sights visited included the Brandenburg gate, Fuhrerbunker (Hitlers bunker), Neue Synagogue, Checkpoint Charlie, an area of artistic graffiti and the East side gallery (part of the wall).

A real sense of guilt was felt for not staying in this city longer, but as the home of one of the best dance festivals; the love parade, a return will certainly be made. The divide within Berlin is clearly no longer evident, though the West still forward taxes indirectly to the East for its restoration. Through its resurgence, I feel that such a recent past must not be forgotten. With the acceptance of such horrors and loss, a strength and unity can be forged from the ashes.

Prague

The beginning of Central Europe and where the fun really begins.

True preservation of a past and interesting culture is fairly transparant, with its roots firmly attached despite the continual influx of tourism and party going weekenders. With a dark mystique attached to the city first noted in the time of the Roman Empire, it imbues a feeling of inscrutability, where to lurk unknown will never unravel, but merely amplify the air of secrecy. Prague is a labyrinth of medieval streets, baroque architecture and suburbs, though most sights lay within the compact downtown, the main centre being Wenceslas square.

Arriving at night, we slept easy in our piano room of the hostel, and discovered a torture museum on our first visit, along with the old town square, with an astronomical clock. An eye opener and tear-jerker (of imagined pain) combined, we made our way quickly back with a stop at an averagely cheap restaurant. That night was to be our first night of partying since travelling, and once a bottle of absinth had been guzzled between four of us, plus others, we made our way to a half decent club, and me and Colin engaged in more than an hour of table football (or fusball as the Americans call it). Even with more beer consumed, I was able to stand, but it was to take the next day to recover. Regardless, we went to see the Prague castle, accessed by Charles Bridge and engaged in a walk from the castle to the old town square.

There is much to see in Prague, and as the only city in Central Europe left untouched by the Second World War, it was a privilege to pass through. With cheap beer and food, a maelstrom of clubs and bars and with a mysterious feel left by century old rumours, Prague is more than just a place to party for the weekend, but one wouldn�t go far wrong if that was to be the basis of their trip; planned or no.

Budapest

Events seemed to be well placed for my arrival.

Budapest holds the key to democracy, but its unlocking may well seriously affect its culture. Originally two separate cities, Budapest was created in 1872 with the joining of Buda and Pest. With a pride and heart that saw it rebuilt after devastation in World War 2 and weather the Soviet Union occupation, it has moved quickly forward to embrace capitalism. Duna River separates the two parts, Buda being the older, more historical filled part, Pest being the commercial centre with plentiful boulevards and a great synagogue.

Our arrival into the morning gave me a full day to explore what I could of the city, and a ragged nights sleep on a night train allowed me little energy to go full pace. Instead I rambled down the main street and to the Liberty Bridge, and then made a climb up Gellert hill, where a monument stands in memory of Soviet soldiers died liberating Hungary. The view was awesome, and only my impatience and hunger tore me away from the magnificence. I continued on to Heroes Square, and then made my way back. On my return journey I marvelled at the abundance of Western global corporations that had made their mark, and realised an issue was at stake. I was to forget this quickly enough after a night embarking upon a festival, in which we saw Moloko, and certainly the next day when we came across a miss Hungary photo shoot, before relaxing in one of the popular baths to reflect. Yet upon interviewing a local, it was clear that a nations culture and identity were at stake, in opening their markets to Western exploitation.

Budapest is known as the cosmopolitan city of Central Europe, and a quickening of tourism and commercialisation may render an interesting culture with powerful history (recent and far) irrelevant. Hungary has been free as a united country for the first time in over a millennium, and the speed of embrace is understandable. Yet a balance would be advisable to be maintained, for the sake of savouring its newfound independence.

Zagreb

Something is rife within Croatia, and it is utter relaxation.

Expectations of a city that has survived ethnic wars and divides in the past decade or more, and has only just gained independence for the first time in 800 years, were to say the least, uncertain. Yet never did I find so many half filled caf� bars day and night, that served little more than alcohol and soft drinks, with the people so inclined to sit and wile the day away with friends. The external scars of the recent wars have all but vanished and it seems like a place brimming with vitality and peace. The best way to see Zagreb is on foot, and with an old and new section, we followed suit and took our time.

There isn�t a great deal to do in Zagreb, and in one day we traversed the city from our hostel to the centre, and then made our way to the lush hills only a funicular ride away. Taking a cable car to the peak of the hills, we found our own quaintly placed caf� bar and sipped a cool beer in high altitude. That evening we explored what we thought would be a nightlife-surrounded lake, but which turned out to be fairly empty, with bars dotted about. We shrugged, set to the beer and took in the lake air.

Zagreb is as laid back as it can get, despite being the centre of Croatia. Yet we were in one of many spots of popular and well-chosen tourism, and it seemed a place well on the way to recovery but personal experiences of noticing tourists were few and far between: a good change and a nice surprise. On a paradoxical note, Croatia�s capital maintains a distinctive small town charm.

Austria

The hills are alive with the sound of music.

Such an expression is reviled in a country of lush greenery, great lumbering mountains and forests that line the slopes and contours, setting the scene for a film that has most likely bolstered tourism, but obtain connotations which the people loathe. Bearing south west of Salzburg, Zell am See was a little town situated within the beauty of the mountains. Resorts line the slopes in abundance, and mainly as a winter place for tourists, we were glad of the clean breathing space and mountain air, savoured before our trek through Italy.

Welcomed warmly by my very own aunt, uncle and cousin, of the mothers, sisters variety (my blood related aunt) in their very own holiday apartment, we were glad of the change; not having to be vigilant with belongings and able to relax almost to a state of comatose (for the amount of caution so far invested). We gently strolled through the hills for a day, and came upon a restaurant that was soon to be brimming with lively yodelling.

A stay compiled with walks and rest was welcome, and at our half way point we were humbled with peace, as toiling adventurers in a tale of journeying often do, given respite to their tumultuous travelling. Elron and Galadriel, with little Elf in hand allowed us the recuperation to continue with hope in heart, and the hills sang as we departed, leaving my lown lord of the rings parallel set. Confused? I hope so. You would receive my worry if you weren�t.

Venice

City of love or sinking harbour?

A touch of both maybe as tourism seeps into the woodwork, threatening to crack its foundations beyond repair. Venice isn�t a huge city, but is a unique set of canals around the Canal Grande, spanning 118 bodies of land and connected to the mainland via a thin walkway. Although there is no main geographical centre, there are six sections cut up by the canal, the main areas including the Ferrovia (train station), Ponte di Rialto (central bridge) and Piazzo San Marco (central south).

All of the above were visited in the space of a day, and initial aspirations for a city shown in many films and with a history of plundered treasures and architecture, were knocked slightly by neglect, renovations and an overcrowded tourist population, that kept the stay to a night. Things tended to be on the expensive side, and with an economy dependent on tourism, the natives seem to be restricted to the catering of tourists needs.

Although I was glad to have seen the significant harbour city, the canal network, experienced a potentially romantic atmosphere, along with the rich plunder of countless empires, which give it a certain mystery and pertinence to mass tourism, this seems to have taken over any real culture. Overall although I was impressed by the unique network of canals and romanticist element that has clearly been popularised, the expense and over tourism would prevent a return.

Cinque Terra

Beauty in a nutshell

Some words aren�t quite available to describe the place we had been told time and again to see. All in all five villages (a literal translation of Cinque Terra) dot the coast of the Italian Riviera, quaint yet lively fishing villages. Of the five villages we established ourselves within the furthest east, Riomaggiora. With plenty of well kept and bright beaches lay below or in between villages, there is the temptation to wander from the walk between villages, undertaken in the heat of summer by ourselves. With houses and buildings chiselled into the hills and mountains, combined with the breathtaking scenery and dazzling turquoise sea, this place is a definite must see.

But keep it quiet, because moderate tourism is well balanced with a local lively culture, to the point where �guest of honour� seems an appropriate title for tourists and travellers alike. It�s a treasure for the few that appreciate the meaning of encapsulation.

The hostel in which we stayed occupied kitchen, lounge, and all the essentials, and this one of the worse places! Despite the long, hard trek, things could be taken slowly, and there was no sign of the travelling guilt syndrome. Although the beach was actually a line of boulders, it was still one of the better ones I had been to, because of the serenity. But keep it stum.

Florence

Florence mixes art, tourism and commerce with grace and elegance.

Still holding its own as one of the greatest cities of art, architecture and political thought, Florence also has the benefit of lying within Tuscany. The city isn�t great in size, but with the Uffizi gallery, and Ponte Vecchio (old bridge), along with a fort and park, there is enough to see and do.

Staying in a hostel in Certaldo for a night only, and seeing Florence for the day, the city wasn�t greatly experienced, but a walk through seemed to suffice. On our way to Florence, we stopped by to see Pisa, just for the sake of getting those snapshots with leaning tower to our backs. Of course it was well worth it.

The hostel we stayed in was an old home far from any bustling city, a nice surprise for a majority city bound pair. At the heart of Tuscany, we found ourselves in the presence of more English than at any other time on our visit, and good vibes reverberated. Any comment cannot be justified for the lack of time spent there, but what was experience was enjoyed.

Rome

There are few cities that can match the greatness of Rome.

It is not merely because of its once great Empire that Rome is one of those cities that always requires more time being discovered than it is, but because of a thriving life and bustle that eclipses issues of tourism. Rome�s power within Europe is still relevant now through the Papacy, a state within its own rights, although it no longer dictates the course of Western history. In Rome one can find style, passion, and a bustling atmosphere experienced by Italians, migrants, and tourists alike, with no over significance upon any one of these.

Arriving at night, relief at finding the hostel to our tastes, and relief at finding the hostel, we made the most of the next day visiting one of 280 fountains (with steps), the Pantheon, the Colluseum, the Vatican and Vatican museum (including the Sistina), and best of all, the ancient city ruins. This we found was enough for one day, our only full day. Yet the night was one to remember, with a motley crew of Aussies, a few Americans, a Ukranian and on or two more. Roses were bought, pictures were taken, and a marriage proposal was witnessed.

Again we stayed barely long enough to really discover and experience this city of wonder, and true regret was felt in leaving the place where an Empire was forged. Tourism here is huge, but it is more than matched by a culture that can never be drained, commercialised, or rent irrelevant. Though power has diminished to the rule of its own city, Rome�s glory is not dimmed, merely altered.

Sorrento

The assumption is that you can�t go wrong with a coastal city.

Not taken in by the small coast town surface, I remained critical of a place selling its tranquillity and beauty without due justification. One trip to the beach confirmed this criticism, having to pay for a lift down, and reverting to sun bathing on the stone ground due to the cramped sand beach and costly sun-bed areas, each with their own pier. I never believed you could put a price on being able to soak the rays and enjoy some good sea, but now I know you can, with poor quality ones at that. Trust us to choose the most heavily touristed area on the Amalfi coast.

Although we didn�t enjoy Sorrento as a place, it was accessible to the place we had travelled down to see, the Ancient city of Pompei. And so the short trip was balanced, with disappointment at Sorrento, and amazement at Pompei. The preservation is something to which it is an honour to see, as even the physical remains of people in their deathly states can be seen. There is even a brothel to see, with remaining art work and many temples to which I was overtly humbled by.

We had not the time to visit Capri from Sorrento, prioritising Pompei, partly because we heard things similar to the effect of what we had experienced in Sorrento, with tourism spoiling the barely recognisable beauty and distinctiveness set to the coastal region city.

Interlaken

Wow

As the last joint destination for my cousin and I, this is where the fruits of our labour were plucked. Nothing can match the beauty of the mountains and surrounding scenery of Interlaken, and an intangible spark set this place apart from the rest. The German speaking population were friendly and the hostel was the best we had stayed in, with kitchen, garden and hammock, chill out rooms, and caf� area. On top of all this, there was a Hooter�s.

Interlaken is at the mouth of some great routes up to the mountain, with two lakes to either side. The town is divided into East and West, differentiated by two train stations, Interlaken Ost and Interlaken West, funnily enough, both with lakes of their own, and Interlaken itself is accessible from either (though closer to West). There are plenty of activities to choose from once you get there, and though done before, white water rafting was the eventual winner, and what a ride it was! Days in Interlaken were lazy, resting and recuperation being at the top of my list, and there was no need for me to explore and discover, for Interlaken reached out and found me.

Interlaken�s peace and neutrality symbolised for me, Switzerland�s neutrality as a whole, with the French, German and Italian speaking areas, along with everyone being able to speak Swiss as standard. There is no feeling of animosity with tourists, with other countries, and not even with the French. Although expensive and popular for tourists, there is strength in well-being and identity, far from being in danger of commercialisation, and ultimately transformation. This is certainly part of the unexplainable phenomenon that makes this place what it is.

Barcelona

Breathe air in Barcelona, and it will fill your lungs with life.

A city of great extravagance and diversity, the Catalonian city is full to the brim with character, exuberance and independence. In Barcelona there is something for everyone; architecture, beaches, art, partying, shopping, festivals, mountains�. and partying. Close to the Basque country, the Pyrenees, and Aragon, Barcelona lies at the heart of the nations richest resources, and is within one of Spain�s most prosperous regions.

The main street running through the city is Las Ramblas, filled with shops, stalls with various wares, show case performers, restaurants, cafes, and leads eventually down to the harbour, Port Vell, with commercial shopping centre at its pier. Mixing commercialism and productivity seems to be the norm in a place that sees the greatest immigration in Spain, which is paradoxical considering Barcelona�s independence and distinctive yet elusive culture. With that said, it is a culture open for any to explore, and home to the works of Antonio Gaudi, the great visionary. I set off on a trip to his park in which I witnessed displays of anti tourism and anti globalisation, a refreshing change to an Italy that depends greatly upon tourism. Barcelona is seemingly indifferent to its tourism and popularity, going at its own quick pace that seems to challenge any outsider to keep up, such as myself when I took to one of the festivals. Barcelona also contains a great set of beaches that were both well kept and not overcrowded, and a great mountain to the north, Montseraat, that seemed like a good challenge at the time. I made it back in one piece.

Barcelona has led the autonomous region of Cataluna in a resurgence of a culture so esoteric and unique it is puzzling even to the rest of Spain. The vanguard city is very secure in its independence, yet there is a unique balance between being anti Castilian, and for some, anti tourism or anti globalisation, and having fun; living life to the full, which Catalonians do in great style.

San Sebastian

Fierce and classy at the same time, San Sebastian offers up a treat in charm and atmosphere.

The first and only visit to a city within the Basque province, I wanted to see what all the fuss was about. With a language and culture that has a distinct origin, believed to date back to natives of Iberia, there was no real sign of any struggle between itself and the rest of Spain. Yet being a popular tourist destination that the city will have a certain dependence upon, this was not in any way transparent, with such an abundance of locals, in which the bars, restaurants and cafes seemed to cater for more than anyone else. It is more a situation of �do as we do, or not at all�.

Arriving after a long days travelling, I walked through a city that gave good first impressions, an ambience shrouding the city that can best be seen at night. After climbing Monsteraat in Barcelona, I was relieved to see the city was relatively small, and with little to do that was free or cheap. This resulted in a day and a half at the beach, and just a couple of hours walking to Mount Urgell, where the view reminded me why tourists came to a lesser known place for a holiday.

Not a great deal was done and experienced, and though the city was a good place to travel, it seemed I was one of the only ones, which was good and bad, knowing I was one of the few to dare the Basque area, but with not staying in a hostel, company was hard to come by. Though San Sebastian displays the odd poster reminding tourists where they are, there is no overwhelming of feeling that one is in a place fighting for independence, on a political, and extreme level.

Santander

In a place not really appropriate for travellers or tourists, this was the first time I realised of all the places that I shouldn�t have bothered.

One night here was a challenge, and luckily I had learnt a small amount of Spanish, to eventually find myself a bed after I found the hostel to be closed. Back in Castilian Spain, it was merely the small city/few tourist�s factor that resulted in me attempting to speak a language I knew little of. Although annoying, it was a learning experience, and brought home the realisation that English-speaking tourists and travellers are pretty ignorant and demanding in expecting everyone to speak their language.

Yet the trip wasn�t a total blunder, as a day spent at the best beach of all those I�d visited was undertaken, on an island of its own, with white sand and space aplenty. Another strange occurrence was the sighting of two black swans, of which I�d never seen. Although not a bad city itself, actual experience always has the first say, and objectivity goes out of the window. Not to be revisited on this basis.

Madrid

As the capital of a great country, Madrid symbolised the true meaning of fiesta and the best time was yet to be had.

From the low in Santander, a high was due, and this was reached both in a seven-storey club, and a trip down to the Bernabau, to see none other than David Beckham and new friends, in his league debut for Real. Madrid is huge, and to take on such a place requires teamwork, that came in the form of two Ohio brothers, Carl and Phil. Taking to the main streets, back streets, as well as a daytrip to Toledo, great things were seen, and laughs were had.

The best and defining moment on this visit was to see Real Madrid play live, and combined with the fiesta vibe, going back to the years after the liberation of Franco, and a cosmopolitan, culture filled atmosphere, Madrid for me was the best capital of any country I have so far been to.

Both cosmopolitan and liberal, Madrid more than lived up to expectations imposed through such a central city, and despite there being no beaches, it was certainly one of the best places of all those I�d been to. With a hostel filled with English and Americans, two of which had home location and university in common with myself, it was good to chill, or party as I pleased, and both were done to a healthy level.

Valencia

Think dilapidated cosmopolitan, throw in a huge productive harbour, and you have Valencia.

Not entirely impressed by the rows of shops, retailers, and endless construction and development under way, a friendly hostel, good company, and the beach were the balancing points, making it worthwhile. Though never really straying from the centre, and more specifically, the area surrounding the hostel, in la lonja, there was no real need to do so, hearing that there was little more in the way of the beach.

The long trip to the beach was eventful in the many architectural projects linked to the business and commercial sector, situated on the outskirts of the city. The nightlife also left something to be desired, and the lack of any lively atmosphere left me yearning for Madrid or Barcelona.

Though there was something in the age-old buildings and architecture adjacent to the hostel, with interesting indoor market, and being the city where Paella originated, it seemed this was overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle of a business orientated make up. Not a place to revisit, at least not for pleasure, but if for business then one can be forgiven.

Granada

A great place to relax and unwind, especially when the hostel looks over the city, under grape vines and with a great view for the sunset.

As the home of the great Allumbra, this is a good enough reason in itself to visit, with great views and peaceful gardens, though I never actually made it to the palace. With a perfect size for a tiring traveller to walk the least distances possible, the Allumbra, a night flamenco visit to Andalusia, and a little of Granada itself was discovered in two well paced days.

Accompanied by the craziest girls I�d met in my life, from none other than Poland, and with a widely travelled Argentinean, we traipsed up into the hills to the last and furthest flamenco showing, by far the best in quality and value. Mesmerised by the dancing, the wailing (singing), clapping and guitar-ing, I was more than happy to sign a deal as cameraman for the troupe�s marketing purposes. Or was that part in my sleep? Either way, it was enjoyable, beaten only by the best and really only sunset I had stood still to witness throughout my travelling.

Granada holds treasures in views, flamenco showings and in the Allumbra, and is by no means for the aged or ageing alone. This is one of the places where I struck lucky, (one of many), and sometimes it is better for things to happen in spontaneity and �of the moment�, than trying to plan things in the hope of having a good time. In one of those places where it can go either way, as a result I appreciated it more.

Marbella

For no other reason than to spend my last days beaching it and ending with a blast, I chose Marbella.

I knew I was willingly sacrificing culture for fun. As expectations were low anyway, I was not disappointed with the overly touristy nature of such a place. Days spent lazing on the beach, and one night at my first ever beach party, made eventful by a beach brawl, the people I met differed from all the travellers that I had crossed paths with mainly because people lived in the hostel, working in nearby bars, or were young party goers, and so connections were few and far between.

A missed bullfight aggravated the visit even more, purely for documentation reasons, and resulted little in the way of culture being seen.

A little England with good weather, beaches and a mainstay of louts, arrogant Londoners and oversized Europeans alike, Marbella simply served a last stop purpose, and this was actually the place where I spent least money, merely for the principle of not wanting to fit in with the excessive tourist population.